The 11 most fascinating bookstores in Buenos Aires

When you pass by the corner of Falena, nothing suggests that behind those thick brick walls in the heart of Chacarita lies one of the city's most beautiful literary oases. To access it, there are no windows or doors inviting you in. You must ring the bell, wait for someone to answer, and grant you access.

Yes, Falena is a closed-door bookstore, almost a secret bookstore. But it’s much more than that: when you enter, you'll generally be welcomed by Marcela, the warm owner, who invites you into her personal paradise. From there, the journey is yours; you can immerse yourself in the music playing in her living room, enjoy a coffee or a glass of wine in her jungle-like courtyard while browsing a book, or lose yourself in the tables filled with titles and stories. Be warned: you’ll find it hard to leave.

The tip: They have a great collection of works by Argentine authors in other languages. They also host jazz and music cycles in their magical courtyard.

Where: Charlone 201.

"We believe reading transforms," says the manifesto of this bookstore located in the Villa Crespo neighborhood. And this idea becomes tangible through their curated selection of independent titles, authors, and publishers. Mandrágora is your place if you want to delve into publications dedicated to feminism and gender studies, as well as being a great refuge for children's and young adult literature.

It’s clear that behind its white brick facade and ivy, there’s the careful curation of its owner and bookseller, anthropologist Carolina Silbergleit. Last year, she launched her own publishing imprint, with three titles already published, each more beautiful than the last.

The tip: They offer workshops (for adults, teenagers, and children) and monthly book clubs.

Where: Vera 1096.

Can one be both a writer and a bookseller? For Cecilia Fanti, it's not only possible, but almost a vital experience. 2017 was a pivotal year for her: she published La chica del milagro (The Miracle Girl) after a life-changing car accident and took over a small neighborhood bookstore, just 26 square meters, located on Céspedes Street in Colegiales. She envisioned it as a place for gatherings, where things would happen: author visits, talks, and book presentations. Céspedes grew so much that by 2020, it had to expand and find a larger space just four blocks away from the original. Now on an avenue, you’ll still find the neighborhood spirit, an exquisite curation of titles and authors, and maybe even run into Cecilia herself to recommend your next read.

The tip: They also have a small branch at the Centro Cultural Recoleta, perfect for a full arty outing.

Where: Álvarez Thomas 853.

This might be the most spectacular bookstore in the country. It’s the largest in South America and has appeared in global lists of the best and most beautiful bookstores in the world, according to The Guardian and National Geographic. But, undoubtedly, it’s also one of the most historic. While it now belongs to a chain of bookstores (Yenny El Ateneo), this iconic building on Avenida Santa Fe was home to the Grand Splendid Theater since 1919, and historic events occurred here: for example, the first sound film was projected in Argentina in 1929, and the Odeón recording studio, where Carlos Gardel began his musical career in 1920, was also located here. Today, the building features three floors dedicated to books and music – the basement is entirely dedicated to children's literature and is a true beauty.

The tip: On the former theater stage, there’s a bar with tables and chairs where you can sit with a book and have a drink. It’s also one of the most Instagrammable bookstores around!

Where: Av. Santa Fe 1860.

A “haunted house.” Yes, the title of Cortázar's short story could also describe this bookstore, founded in 2008 in a typical Palermo house with high ceilings, incredible dark wood shelves, and over 40,000 titles.

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As with most of the places on this list, Eterna Cadencia isn’t just a place to buy books, but a refuge for literature lovers: this is why it’s chosen by the most renowned writers for book presentations or talks. Since 2008, they’ve also had a publishing imprint. What’s a must-read from their catalog? Alejandra Kamiya’s short story trilogy: it's an absolute gem!

The tip: They have a beautiful terrace for reading in the sun and their own bar, perfect for a gastro-literary outing.

Where: Honduras 5582.

Patricio Rago is a bookseller and writer: he published Ejemplares únicos (Unique Copies), a book of chronicles about his craft told with mastery and humor. In a small shop on Avenida Scalabrini Ortiz in Villa Crespo, he opened Aristipo, a very special bookstore that exclusively sells used books—those we all wish we had in our collections—focusing on universal literature, social sciences, and philosophy.

The tip: Every three months, Patricio hosts what has become a classic called "La Francachela," a street party where people gather around the bookstore for book sales, choripán, wine, dancing, and good vibes. Singles, take note! There’s even a rumor that there’s good matchmaking at these literary gatherings.

Where: Av. Raúl Scalabrini Ortiz 605.

Born 20 years ago in the heart of Palermo, Libros del Pasaje is also one of those places where time seems to fade away. It’s a tall house with vaulted ceilings and endless stairs leading to more shelves, filled with titles. At the back, there’s a bar and a living-room-style space where literary gatherings, talks, and book presentations take place. In the gallery, you can sit and immerse yourself in a story, or participate in cultural activities like workshops and children’s activities.

The tip: There are many good dining spots nearby, so you can complete your outing. Our favorites on Thames? Niño Gordo and Spritzza.

Where: Thames 1762.

Walking through the typical streets of San Telmo, it’s lovely to be invited into La Libre, a cooperative bookstore (which also edits and distributes books) housed in an old, beautiful house with open doors. The bookstore embraces literature but also culture and the arts in general. You’ll find both new and carefully curated used books. They also host literary workshops and activities such as paste-up workshops, photography, theater, and art exhibitions.

The tip: They have a monthly in-person book club called "La Frontera."

Where: Chacabuco 917.

Getting to Ref is already an outing: located on Honduras Street in the heart of Palermo, but in a quieter area, more like an oasis surrounded by old trees and wide sidewalks for walking. It feels like a house, but once inside, you’re welcomed by good music and the feeling that you’re entering someone’s personal library, where each book is carefully selected for its readers. They have new books, as well as older titles that have fallen out of trend but still find a privileged spot.

The tip: Just nearby, there are two must-visit spots for a complete reading experience in the sun—La Alacena, an Italian oasis by Julieta Oriolo, and El Imperfecto, where you can enjoy some delicious empanadas.

Where: Honduras 4191.

The name of this bookstore speaks volumes about its space. From its colorful facade filled with illustrations, you know that what you'll find inside might be revelatory. And we’re not mistaken: Magia Libros is full of great literature, but it specializes in esoteric books, making it an ideal place if you’re into tarot, astrology, fungi culture, and oracles. You’ll find decks of all kinds, all beautiful and fantastic! If you're looking for magic, it’s here.

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The tip: On their Instagram, they have a section called "Tinder for books," where you share something about yourself, and the booksellers—Ana and Sebastián—match you with the perfect book.

Where: Thames 1619.