Fatcow on James St

You have to admire the purity of vision at Fatcow. Here, it's all about steak and live lobster, and being treated like royalty. It's the kind of restaurant where Don Draper and Roger Sterling would go for lunch and probably stay all afternoon, and the only thing that would give them pause would be the no-smoking thing. The waiter service is old school, hail-fellow-well-met, confident and jokey. The decor is pared back and stylish but not stuffy. The menus are bound in leather and the headline dish within is the $199 rib eye and lobster half, which are perfectly cooked and seasoned and offer absolutely no surprises, and that is presumably what the clientele love about it.