Admittedly greater than the sum of its parts, this once-classic greasy spoon (established in 1937) is now a knowingly jazzy version of its original self. Though the old stainless steel grill, Formica tabletops and cafeteria-style service at breakfast and lunch proudly advertize its blue-collar roots, blue cheese and spinach omelettes, turkey burgers and sweet potato fries hint at a yuppie bent. Either way, people-watching come Sunday brunch is the biggest treat of all.
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