In an area swarming with chowder-chugging tourists and chop-chomping financiers, this Turkish eaterie is an unlikely sensation - and has been for the past quarter-century. The space (for lack of a better term) is cramped, and the counter service brusque; the eats, however, are anything but utilitarian. Split the huge, garlicky, pita-wrapped doner kebab so you can sample at least one of the aromatic veggie dishes too.
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