At this point, chef-owner Gary Strack’s New American outpost is a Central Square classic. While the bar upstairs has rotated in theme and feel, Central Kitchen maintains the elements that make it a bright spot amid the chaos of Mass Ave.—intimate seating, lovely staff, a kick-ass wine list and a menu packed with skillfully executed dinner favorites like steak frites ($29) and seared bluefish ($25) as well as apps like scallop and shrimp ceviche ($15) and a half-dozen east coast oysters ($13).