Getaway to Berguedà: Exploring a working river

Your first destination today is Sant Corneli de Cercs. Here, at 920 metres above sea level, the mining company Carbones de Berga, SA brought life to the town for 140 years. But with that life came death as well: as you can imagine, the miners’ working conditions were difficult and dangerous, and unfortunately, many lives were lost underground. Visiting the Cercs Mines is a good way of remembering and paying tribute to them, while at the same time, learning a lot about coal mining and life in a mining town. This was one of the most important mining towns in Catalonia, with a peak population of 3,000, though nowadays that number has dwindled to barely 100.

But before going down the mine, check out the museum, which will provide you with a comprehensive and informative insight into the town, complete with reproductions of a school classroom and a dispensary, as well as audiovisual presentations on the two most important miners’ protests that took place in the area in 1932 and 1977. You can also visit a re-creation of a miner’s cottage from the 1940s and watch an audiovisual presentation on the Alt Berguedà mining region. Some years ago, the museum’s permanent exhibitions were expanded by the incorporation of The Spectacle of the Mine, showing the two mining systems currently in use – underground and open-pit mining – explained by archaeologists from the future using holograms and innovative sound and image effects including 3D resources and a role play with interactive projections.

Then it's time to leave virtual reality behind, put on your hard hats and board the train to descend to the real coal mine.

Berga is known for its Patum festival, but it's a great place to take the time to explore in depth. The capital of the Berguedà region has experienced plenty of hard times since it was founded in the 12th century. It was damaged in the Reapers’ War, the War of the Spanish Succession and in the Carlist Wars, but it's always managed to bounce back, especially after industrialization began in the late 19th century, when it became the dynamic centre of the region – a role it preserves today. Visitors can follow a walking route called Un tomb per Berga, which will take you around the city’s main sights. You can download a fact sheet or pick one up from the Tourist Information Office located in Carrer dels Àngels. The walking route starts there and then calls in at the medieval Plaça de Sant Pere, the old Sant Bernabé Hospital, the remains of the town walls, the Torre de les Hores, the Sant Francesc Convent and the Carrer Major, among many other places.

And if you want to find out more about the history of Berga, go back to Carrer del Àngels and call in at number 7, where you’ll find the Berga Study Space, which is open every day from 6pm to 8pm. For fans of the Patum festival, which has UNESCO immaterial cultural heritage status, you can soak up a little of the atmosphere of the event, even when it isn’t Corpus Christi, by visiting the Casa de la Patum, located in Plaça del Dr. Salón, where you can see the costumes and figures used in the traditional dances.

And since it doesn't get dark until late at this time of the year, you can now head up to get a bird’s-eye view of the city and the region from a place known as The Balcony of Catalonia, the Sanctuary of Santa Maria de Queralt, which as well as fantastic views can boast a long history and a wealth of heritage. The sanctuary houses an iconic image of the Virgin Mary called the Mare de Déu de Queralt, while an adjacent building, which was once an inn, is now a restaurant. La Cova church is, according to legend, where the image of the Virgin was first discovered. The short funicular trip that takes you from the car park to the sanctuary is another of the place’s attractions.

From the mid-19th century on, a series of industrial colonies – factory or company towns established to exploit the power of the Llobregat River – were founded in the Berguedà region. Dotted all along the 'working river', most of these factory towns were devoted to textile production, were made up of the workers’ houses, and offered all the basic services such as schools, churches, cafés and shops. They are now a living reminder of Catalonia’s industrial past and many have been preserved in excellent condition and can be visited.

A good way to explore them is by following the Ruta de les Colònies on a mountain bike (the route can also be done on foot, though it will take longer, of course). The 32km route starts at Cal Rosal, which is located between Gironella and Berga, and then heads south to finish at Balsareny, taking in along the way a total of 16 textile colonies. It's an excellent way to get to know more about the lives and conditions of the workers of that time while getting plenty of exercise.