Silenus

Named after one of the drunken followers of Dionysus, Silenus is nonetheless all about restraint. Its quiet dining room has an air of scuffed elegance, with carefully chipped and stained walls whereon the ghost of a clock is projected and the faded leaves of a book float up on high. The food, too, is artisti- cally presented. It’s not especially cheap, but the set lunch is generally a good bet, offering dishes from Caesar salad to crunchy gnocchi with creamed spinach or spicy botifarra with puréed potatoes.