'When you see that an ice cream parlour has more than 25 flavours and calls itself artisan, you have to be suspicious of the place. They don't have time to make them.' Alessadro Gaetano, a partner at OGGI (Officina Gelato Gusto Italiano), is blunt in this regard. In 2016 he opened his first space outside of Italy, and is proud to do it all from scratch using no pastes or ready-made ingredients.
'The raw material used in the ice cream is what marks the quality. We make the pistachio ice cream with Sicilian pistachios and that's it. Industrial ice cream is air, sugar and colouring.' Try them and you'll believe it: refreshing flavours like wild fennel, mint and basil – a Sicilian classic – colour the palate in high definition. And if you need more convincing, know that, like all good Argentinians, the Pope understands ice cream, and OGGI are official suppliers to events in the Holy See.