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Roberto is from Wenzhou, but he came here 28 years ago. He has worked in many different businesses, but a year ago the chance came up to take over a restaurant. Now he’s gone back to doing what he does best: cooking. "My wife and I make traditional Chinese dishes, but I’m happy that the place is still called Cuina Maria" said Roberto, exiting the kitchen with a tray of mapo tofu. To make this tofu, chilli and mince stew a little less spicy, I order a cucumber salad marinated in garlic. The portions are generous but they don’t mind if you ask for dishes ‘da bao’ (to take away).