Cal Pep

As much tapas bar as restaurant, Cal Pep is always packed to the hilt: get here early to bag one of the coveted seats at the front. There is a cosy dining room at the back, but it’s a shame to miss the show. The affable Pep will take the order, steering neo- phytes towards the trifásico – a mélange of fried whitebait, squid rings and shrimp. Other favourites include the exquisite little tallarines (wedge clams), and botifarra sausage with beans. Then squeeze in four shot glasses of foam – coconut with rum, coffee, crema catalana and lemon – as a light and scrump- tious pudding.