When restaurateur Kim Díaz sets his mind to something (Bar Mut, Muticlub, Bocadillos Díaz), he doesn’t do things by halves. Bodega Solera, which opened in summer 2023, is his take on a classic Cádiz-style tavern fused with a French-style wine bar. ‘I imagined the story of an Andalusian family who moved to 1960s Barcelona and opened a bodega. And then they managed to send their two kids to study oenology in France – they came back full of ideas about natural wine,’ he explains. Expect perfectly poured beer and a glorious wine list – around 650 bottles presented in a binder – where ‘natural wines sit alongside the classics, and the motto is wine for everyone’ says Díaz. Oh, and another of Solera’s missions? To champion sherry.
Hungry? You’re in luck. They even have a certified ham carver. Running the show in the low bar is Dani Sánchez, formerly second-in-command at Bar Mut, now leading the charge with top-quality bodega-style tapas. With Murcian parents, Sánchez says he’s ‘reworking dishes I grew up with and the kind of classic tapas you’d find in a little bodega – simple combinations, but done really well.’ There’s a glowing board where southern treats like montaditos de regañá (yes, that twist of crunchy bread) with Russian salad and anchovy sit next to Barbastro tomato salad – marinated in hojiblanca olive oil and pickled onion – and a proper, very Catalan fricandó de llata (slow-cooked beef with mushrooms). The menu is broad and flexible – perfect for a quick bite or for settling in at the marble counter and soaking up the atmosphere. Don’t miss the caíllo, a small sandwich filled with a traditional stew that’s only made in Caravaca de la Cruz – and here. Oh, and keep an eye out for the bar within the bar, dedicated to Lola Flores.
This review is by Ricard Martin, food and drink editor at Time Out Barcelona, from his visit in 2023.