The Omakase Scene has long been dominated by Edomae-style sushi, where the natural flavor of the fish takes a prominent role, and each bite is minimally seasoned with condiments like ponzu and soy sauce. But sometimes the minimal flavors of Edomae sushi are not enough, especially for Thais who are so accustomed to flavorful, spice-injected fare. That’s where sosaku-style or creative sushi, which allows the inclusion of non-Japanese ingredients like foie gras and caviar, comes into play.
Food enthusiast-slash-restaurateur Poramin Pruangmethangkul, the man behind noodle joint Yuzu Ramen, takes his love for yuzu one step further with Yuzu Omakase. At this new outpost, sushi leaves off the simplicity for lavish garnishing and indulgent additions.
Yuzu Omakase is situated one floor above Yuzu Ramen, in a building marked by an eyestriking signage featuring cartoonish renditions of the Japanese lucky cat and popular Japanese eats. In contrast to this garish façade, the space occupied by Yuzu Omakase retains a minimalist simplicity, showcasing blond wood furniture and white walls. Adding contemporary elements, a golden yuzu-shaped feature (also the restaurant’s logo) fills up a partition separating the entrance foyer from the dining room, while a replica of a yuzu tree stands in the center of a massive omakase bar, hinting of the role the citrus fruit has in the menu.
Dining options include a choice of 13 to 15 courses (B4,500), 15 to 18 courses (B6,500), and The Experience (B9,500), which features 15 to 18 extra-premium bites. The last option offers the most indulgent sosaku sushi experience, pairing the top-notch seafood with fancy garnishes. Some of our favorites include steamed abalone with flavorful abalone liver sauce, heavenly Miyazaki wagyu sushi with truffle shavings, and melt-in-your-mouth otoro topped with caviar and edible gold.
The injection of yuzu into the menu produces impressive results. You have mozuku seaweed, which is native to Okinawa, doused in fish broth with hints of yuzu; mikan-dai (a fish with a natural citrusy note from feeding on yuzu) topped with sudashi (Japanese lime) and yuzu zest; and boldly-flavored botan ebi (a type of large prawn) served with its own fat, yuzu kosho (yuzu chili paste) and yuzu zest. These small plates are served in succession along with hotaru ika (firefly squid) with sauce made from salted egg and sesame, and a dessert of white chocolate and yuzu yoghurt.
Drop by at midday for the reasonably-priced lunch course (B2500) Yuzu Omakase may not convert devotees of the traditional omakase, but it’s innovative sushi offerings are impressive enough to be memorable, and flavorful enough to appease the palates of adventurous epicureans.