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[title]Earlier in the year, the resignation of chefs David Thompson and Prin Polsuk from renowned dining room Nahm surprised the Thai and global culinary spheres. The vacated head chef position was soon occupied by San Francisco-hailing Thai chef Pim Techamuanvivit.
Once a Silicon Valley exec, Pim transitioned into a career in food with her blog Chez Pim, voted one of the world’s most influential food blogs by The Guardian. In 2014, she opened her own Thai restaurant called Kin Khao, which has since been a holder of a Michelin star.
A few years down the line, chef Pim has been tasked to spearhead the kitchen of one of the best Thai restaurants in the world. The blogger-turned-chef/restaurateur is now pursuing the restaurant’s long-standing culinary principles, and at the same time injecting her own signature style.
You’ve been chosen to take over the position vacated by David Thompson, one of the world’s most noted chefs in Thai cuisine. Why do you think this job is for you?
That’s not a question for me! [Laughs]. Actually Christina Ong [owner of COMO hotels and resorts] and I have dined together on several occasions, including at Kin Khao. We share quite similar palates and have similar taste in things. She approached me and asked if I wanted to come to Bangkok to head Nahm. At first, I thought Bangkok was really far and that I couldn’t move full-time. But she insisted that I should think about working between Bangkok and San Francisco. And I later realized that Nahm has a huge legacy. It’s really flattering because she was the one who discovered chef David—he wasn’t famous at that time. She saw something in him, and now she must have seen something in me. Also, all of my family is here in Bangkok, except me. Both of my parents are getting older. I’m not going to regret spending more time with them while they are still healthy.
What were your first impressions of Nahm?
I love Nahm for being an authentic Thai restaurant. The way they serve the food and the taste are very Thai, unlike most fine-dining Thai restaurants that focus on molecular cuisine. But even though chef David and I have a similar philosophy and approach to Thai cooking, our tastes are very different. I am Thai, but my food is not as spicy as his! I think the taste of chef David’s food is very sharp. My food is a little more feminine and more delicate. If you use premium ingredients but it’s all about sharp flavors, you can’t taste the ingredients! [If] you stir-fry something and there’s so much chili, it might as well be tofu. But of course, the legacy of Nahm is very enormous, you can’t just come here and and turn it into a burger joint!
You have big shoes to fill in…
Of course, but also because he’s taller [laughs]. But I think I have my own story to tell about the food, and that’s why I’m here.
Do you plan to turn Nahm into Kin Khao?
No, Kin Khao is more like a boisterous bistro. Nahm is not going to turn into Kin Khao. Think of [Kin Khao] as Greyhound. It’s fun. It’s loud. But for Nahm, we have a chance to take things a little bit slower [because we have] more time to showcase the food. But it’s the same chefs, so the food won’t be drastically different. It’s the approach of how we serve and what we put on the plate that will be. Working at Nahm, I think it’s my duty to support Thai artisans and small-scale farmers and fishermen. We actually stopped using fish sauce from a big brand, and did a blind tasting on 12 different fish sauces sourced from local producers. We also travelled to Naan and discovered “green rice,” which is young rice and remains green even after milling. It’s very delicious and fragrant. We want Nahm to become a channel for showcasing the best of Thai produce,and support the people who produce them.
What are your strengths?
I am curious, and I am a perpetual student. I wake up every day thinking there’s always something new to learn. If you think you know it all, there will be no development.
How do you envision Nahm under your leadership?
I want it to be the best [Thai restaurant] in Bangkok. I want it to be a great dining experience for the guest. Basically, that’s pretty much it. I want diners to learn something and eat delicious food, and to also support Thai artisans.
