Time Out meets Napol Jantraget

Charoenkrung eatery 80/20 was already championing local produce sourced from independent farmers and transforming them into mind-blowing creations long before locally sourced ingredients became cool. The restaurant was running on a high note, so it was surprising when it announced a temporary, three-month closure and a partnership with restaurant group Foodie Collection, the parent company of renowned dining rooms and bars Il Fumo and Vesper.

80/20 recently reopened with a fresh new look, complete with a more spacious kitchen and dining spaces, and is now offering only a B3,000 tasting menu. (No more à la carte, mate.) Time Out Bangkok sits down with chef/owner Napol “Joe” Jantraget, who reveals more details on the modern eatery’s new culinary concept and his decision to partner up with Foodie Collection.

Sereechai Puttes/Time Out Bangkok

What made you decide to collaborate with Foodie Collection?

I have known Choti and Debby [owners of Foodie Collection] for a while as they frequently came to dine at 80/20. We talked and discovered that we had quite a similar passion for food but in different aspects. I give all to the food, but their strong point is in hospitality and service. One day, I proposed a business plan and they were interested in the partnership.

Are you concerned that the partnership will compromise the identity of 80/20?

A little bit at the start. We discussed the direction of the new 80/20. Even though our new approach has become fine-dining, the identity of Joe and Saki [Hoshino, the pastry chefs of 80/20] must still be there. Actually, we are not that fine-dining. We are still easygoing, fun and interactive, with passion on the plate—the more grown-up version of 80/20.

What changes can customers expect?

The tasting menu-only option. We manage to use more than 80 percent of locally-sourced ingredients now. I dare say that 99 percent of the ingredients we use are locally produced, except chocolate. [Note: The restaurant used to focus on 80 percent Thai produce, while 20 percent were imported.] Also, with the collaboration, Palm [Supawit Muttarattana, the group bar manager stationed at Vesper] has created amazing cocktails, and the head sommelier [Thanakorn Mankit] has introduced amazing natural wines to pair with the food. They all taste amazing!

Why did you decide to use imported chocolate despite the emergence of local brands?

I think Thai chocolates are great, but they still haven’t developed a distinct taste. We decided on chocolate sourced from Malaysia. The one we’re using boasts flavors like no other. The beans are unroasted and have only gone through fermentation—that makes the characteristics of the chocolate so evident.

Sereechai Puttes/Time Out Bangkok

Why do you decide to restrict the dining option to a tasting menu?

Before the renovation, our kitchen was very small, and when the menu was à la carte, we often turned out dishes right after we finished preparing them. Sometimes hot soup would come out before the cold salad, and that often messed up the sequence. So, with the tasting menu, we believe that we can control the order of the dishes and the experience the customers will get from dining with us. We used to focus on ingredients and were concerned about what we could do with them. But with the tasting menu, we can come up with a story that relates to us and our journey, and transmit it to the food.

What does it mean now that you have a bigger kitchen and a bigger team.

From two and a half stations, we now have six stations so we can do more in the kitchen. We train our staff to do everything from scratch and make them understand the reasons behind each of the cooking process.

What are your intentions with the new 80/20?

I want to see Thai cuisine become one of the best in the world. Thai cuisine has all the criteria of a great culinary culture—a long history, unique ingredients and its position in the high court. However, people pay too much attention to tradition and authenticity. In my opinion, an innovative approach is missing for Thai cuisine to move forward and become a greater cuisine. So at 80/20, we embrace new ideas and approaches, and nurture the innovative side of Thai cuisine.