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[title]Soft-spoken and slightly reserved, Kanta “Toiting” Siddidharm has the kind of personality that you’d wouldn’t expect from someone who interned in the kitchen of Noma, the renowned two-Michelin-star restaurant that’s credited for introducing New Nordic Cuisine to the world. Now back in Thailand, Toiting heads the fermentation lab of innovative eatery Charoenkrung 80/20. We sit down with the young chef to learn about her time at Noma and find out what’s she’s bringing to her current kitchen of residence.
How did you end up working for Noma?
I watched many documentaries on Chef René Redzepi and Noma, and my time at Gaa gave me an insight into his contribution to New Nordic cuisine. And three years ago, I had an opportunity to dine at the restaurant. Even though I did not totally understand their food, I was really impressed and enjoyed the experience. So I came back to Thailand, sent them my CV and requested for an internship. It’s unbelievable, but they replied to my email within one day.
Sereechai Puttes/Time Out Bangkok
What was your role in the kitchen?
As an intern, I had to do almost everything [involving the labor-intensive work], from cleaning up the kitchen and restaurants to foraging for vegetables. We would work from 7:00 a.m. until 1:00 a.m., with two days off every week. On days we had to go foraging, it usually started around nine in the morning and last until midnight. It was really tough.
What did you learn at Noma?
I had never seen or worked in a kitchen as big as Noma’s. The systems there are difficult to apply to smaller kitchens. So what I took from my time there was professionalism and the importance of teamwork. Discord at work are left in the kitchen, and we don’t let them interfere with our after-work life. I also learned to be patient and be disciplined. We never engaged in chitchat while working. Everyone was focused on his or her tasks.
Many people criticize how interns are hired in fine-dining kitchens without getting paid, in exchange for the experience of working for a reputable restaurant. What do you think of this issue?
I think it’s totally fair on both ends. I think a short time in which you get to learn from the best chefs out there and go through real service is what many could only dream of.
Do you have any memorable stories from time in Noma?
One time, there was a chef running towards me and told me that Chef René wanted to see me. He had a serious look on his face, so I thought something must have gone wrong. I was so scared. But Chef René wanted to see me because he had brought some Thai takeaway. I could remember it was Isaan fermented sausage and khanom tua paeb (glutinous Thai dessert). He had thought that I missed Thailand and wanted to share the food with me.
Sereechai Puttes/Time Out Bangkok
You are in charge of the fermentation lab at 80/20. Is there any difference in the Thai and Nordic way of fermenting ingredients?
It has to do with the difference in ingredients, as well as external forces like temperature. For example, Thailand has many varieties of rice and each kind requires a different amount of time to be fermented, whereas in Denmark, they usually use only barley for fermentation. Thailand is also hot and humid, so the fermentation process doesn’t take as long as in Denmark where it is much colder and dryer. Moreover, the fermentation process is meant to give off an explosion of flavor through the use of salt and sugar, but the Nordic tend to preserve the natural flavor of the ingredients.
Why has fermentation become a popular technique in the modern fine-dining?
Fermentation has long been a cornerstone in the Thai kitchen, used to preserve food for a longer period of time. But modern chefs are trying to use ingredients that have never been used before and discover new flavors by fermenting them. So it brings unpredictability and discovery to the dining experience.
What do you think about Bangkok’s food scene?
I’m bored of fine-dining in Bangkok—I think it lacks soul. And the service staff aren’t usually eager to help you learn about the food. I am more interested in our street food culture. I recently went to a place called Sanae Plaijavak in Nonthaburi. It’s a rustic shack serving “jungle food” with great attention to detail.
But you’re working in a fine-dining kitchen at 80/20!
I think 80/20 is more casual and friendly compared to other places.
How do you see yourself in ten years?
I want to have more time for my family and open a small eatery. I’ve noticed that most cafes in Bangkok that serve great coffee usually make bad food, and the other way round. So I want to open a place that excels in both. Oh, and open a small natural wine bar, too.
Sereechai Puttes/Time Out Bangkok