The restaurant mini-chain finds inspiration in various concepts with each eatery it opens. The first three bear influences of Thailand’s very first coffee shop, a legendary neighborhood landmark and a train station in a resort town. The fourth Plearnwan Panich displays an obsession for Siam Soo, those wooden dancing dolls created by American homemaker Florence Burgess Meehan after witnessing a performance by Siamese dancers in 1920.
Set on the ground floor of the newly opened The Street Ratchada mall, Plearnwan Panich Siam Soo is beset by these vintage collectibles on every corner. Dolls in different sizes and styles fill up the room: wooden Siam Soo dolls, tin dolls, vintage metal dolls, plush dolls, spooky dolls.
The food veers away from experimentation and is similar to what you’d find in Plearnwan Panich’s other branches. Experience a bout of nostalgia with traditional comfort fare such as pad Thai, khao khai song kruang krata ron (pan-fried rice and egg with condiments, B80) and toasted bread topped with Thai tea custard. We tried a number of dishes on offer, but the khanom pang sang kaya (bread with kaya, B60) remains our favorite.
One corner is dedicated to a bar, which is tended by the team behind the now closed Cocktail Bar at Mansion 7. Finish off a light meal with the vodka-based Yellow Perfume or the Modori-based Jealous. The restaurant is open until 1am but, with enough lobbying from its regular patrons, would consider extending its hours.