New restaurants and cafes to visit in Charoenkrung

When artist and restaurateur Saran Yenpanya embarks on a new venture, it’s never ordinary. And his new project is Citizen Tea Canteen, an artisanal tea house that’s located in a discreet alley in Talad Noi. The establishment breathes new life into the old Chinese café culture (called “kopi”),  but also celebrates the traditional Thai milk tea that our grandfathers used to drink. ​​ Decorated like old noodle shops, it features stools found at old-school mom-and-pop shops and colorful wallpaper—everything put together in a creative manner. Too bad, it’s only open on Saturdays for now.

This new lifestyle space, located on Soi Charoenkrung 43, boasts minimalist décor that’s chic and warm at the same time—ivory walls, Scandi-style furnishing, and an airy split-level back quarter with a huge arched window that brings in natural light. Madi is a pun on the Thai phrase ma-dii, which translates as “come on!”

The lower floor acts as a café, serving coffee brewed from Mae Chan Tai beans, while the upper floor is a multidisciplinary “creator’s hub” where creative types are welcome to showcase, perform or teach their art. The current show features black-and-white analog photographs of the Charoenkrung neighborhood, taken by one of the owners’ daughters, whose name is Mardi.

An old quarter branch of the hip cafe and lifestyle brand Siwilai. 

You gotta give it to The Oriental. Impeccable service and refined rooms have made it one of the best hotels in the world for decades. And when it comes to food and drinks, La Grande Dame offers no less. The riverside hotel is home to many institutional dining outlets: the Michelin-lauded Le Normandie, classy tea room Author’s Lounge, the beautifully designed China House, Thai restaurants Sala Rim Naam and Terrace Rim Naam, Italian venue Ciao, and seafood and grill restaurant Lord Jim’s, the latter having just reopened after months of renovations. The reopening of Lord Jim’s comes with a little surprise—it now has houses a small kaiseki restaurant within its premises, called Kinu by Takagi. 

The 10-seater dining room is the brainchild of Chef Takagi Kazuo, whose eponymous kyo ryori (traditional Kyoto cuisine) restaurant in Ashiya, Japan, has been holding two Michelin stars since 2010. The Japanese chef sets his first Southeast Asian outpost in the deepest corner of Lord Jim’s, behind the sliding doors of a cubicle. You’ll be brought inside after a quiet tea moment in a small wooden pod, which they call a “minka” (refers to a traditional Japanese residence), just outside the kaiseki restaurant. 

Inside, every little detail—dim lighting, a polished dining bar made from a massive slab of wood, chairs wrapped in shibori-dyed fabric, wabi sabi plates and handmade glasses—reflects Kazuo’s utmost efforts to make you feel like you’re eating in an upscale restaurant in Japan. 

Meanwhile, his interpretation of Kyoto cuisine is seen in a 10-course kaiseki meal, the Japanese version of haute cuisine that employs the use of only the finest ingredients, elaborate creativity and intricate techniques. The meal starts off with Zensai, composed of five small bites meant to awaken your palate: charcoal-grilled Wagyu beef shoulder with spring onion; foie gras terrine wrapped in lily bulb; light smoked salmon sushi bonbon; persimmon with maitake mushroom, tofu, sesame sauce and Hokkaido ikura; and poached eggplant in dashi broth with sea urchin. “There’s no order. Eat as you like,” the chef says, affirming that there are no strict rules when it comes to eating his cuisine. 

Wanmori, the next course and one of our favorites, includes steamed amadai fish with grated Japanese turnip and Sturia caviar, shimeji mushrooms, ginkgo nuts, carrot and pumpkin maple leaves, and a Kochi yuzu-flavored broth that magically balances out everything in the bowl. Tsukuri, a sashimi dish of the daily catch, and toro sushi are served next. 

The meal only improves with Agemomo, a dish of deep-fried tofu and vegetables with snow crab from the Totori prefecture and karasumi (a Japanese delicacy made of fish roe), and Aizakana, a dish of Tokushima abalone in abalone liver sauce. In Yakimono, the next course,  Okayama pomfret is charcoal-grilled and served with miso-yuan sauce. This is followed by Takiawase, which reveals the best flavors of grilled Japanese Wagyu beef in tomato sukiyaki sauce. And then comes the rice—nothing but the finest Japanese organic rice from the Nagano prefecture—served with grilled Miyazaki eel and red Nagano miso soup. The last course, a combination of Shine Muscat grapes, peach compote with jelly, grapefruit sorbet and oiri, a traditional rice puff from the Kagawa prefecture, gives an exceptional ending to the dinner along with matcha tea and petite fours.  

Some may think the flavors at Kinu mild and lacking a certain bite, but that’s what Kyoto cuisine is all about—food that reflects its origin and the truest tastes of nature. In this sense, Kinu makes it just right. 

A kaiseki dinner at Kinu is priced at B7,500 per person, and is served twice a day at 18:30 and 21:00. Dishes change regularly according to the season and available ingredients. 

Dishes mentioned above were those served during our visit on November 20, 2019.

Of the three dining rooms at the five-star Four Seasons Bangkok, it’s Italian restaurant Riva Del Fiume that takes up prime space, set by the Chao Phraya River riverfront. The restaurant is airy and sunlit, but still undoubtedly elegant. AvroKo, the same studio behind the head-turning interiors of Lennon’s, Nan Bei and BKK Social Club, took inspiration from Lake Como and installed touches that evoke the famous Italian destination’s breezy, stylishly chic vibe—rattan chairs and light-colored wood add warmth to a room dominated by marbled surfaces and globe lamps.  

Spearheading the kitchen is executive chef Andrea Accordi, whose years of experience, including a stint at Four Seasons Hong Kong, has equipped him with the culinary polish to create exquisite pan-Italian cuisine. 

We heartily recommend Risotto in Riva al Mare (B,1800), a tasty dish with a smooth, rich sauce and a generous serving of freshly shucked seafood. Controfiletto (B2,300/150g), a MS 9+ striploin, also deserves a thumbs up. This award-winning, chocolate-fed Australian Wagyu from Mayura Station is so sweet and tender that you’ll want more after every bite.

The food line-up also includes Vitello Tonnato (B590), a slow-cooked veal tenderloin drenched in creamy tuna-anchovy sauce, and Spaghetti Mancini (B450), a dish that blows our palate away with a sprinkling of spicy dried cruschi peppers.

Other offerings, like a hand-kneaded focaccia with pancetta and pesto sauce (B380), a toothsome tiramisu (B350) and strawberry granitas (B360) are likewise ample reasons to book a table and indulge your craving for delicious Italian specialties.

Nicolas Raynal, the head chef of Brasserie Palmier at Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok at Chao Phraya River, is on a mission to acquaint Thai diners with a different side to French cuisine. According to Chef Nicolas, there is more to the European fare than rich creams and buttery sauces that sit heavily on meats and seafood. French food can be light and refreshing too, and suited to Thailand’s tropical climate.

Just like fellow Four Seasons Bangkok restaurant Riva Del Fiume, Brasserie Palmier sits on a gorgeous spot right by the Chao Phraya, and has both indoor and outdoor spaces that allow you to drink in breathtaking vistas of the river while enjoying Champagne and Chef Nicolas’ delicious offerings.

The star of the menu is Poulet Rôti (B1,950), a roasted chicken cooked with herbs and spices to give a special aroma to the soft, juicy meat. (This needs to be ordered a day in advance, but it’s worth the effort.) You can have the chicken with Palmier French Fries (B220). This side dish of crispy sweet potato chips comes with homemade ketchup and is a guaranteed winner.

The restaurant is also known for its seafood dishes, and the Oyster Tasting Plate (B1,080), which comes with six different types of oysters, won’t disappoint. Neither will Sole Grenobloise (B2,900), which fulfils your taste buds with a huge piece of pan-seared sole.

What’s better, you now don’t have to fly to Paris (or other French towns) to get a real taste of Soupe à l'Oignon (B420) or the famous onion soup where the chef lets beef bone simmer until it produces a mouth-watering broth. You won’t be able to stop slurping this dish, which derives a subtle saltiness from the crispy cheese on top.

Other can’t-miss items include Marinated Sardine Tartines (B450), Wagyu Beef Tartare (B450), and perfectly made desserts like Passion Fruit & Banana Omelette Norvegienne (B580) and milles feuilles (B340).

You’ll be happy to know that Philip Bishchoff from BKK Social Club has come up with a cocktail list for Brasserie Palmier. Instead of having to fight to get a seat at his bar, you can have his concoctions in a riverside position at Brasserie Palmier instead.

While many discerning diners opt to lavish it up when night falls, the midday meal may just be a better option at some venues in terms of ambience and price. One of those places is Côte by Mauro Colagreco at the Capella Bangkok hotel.

The name Mauro Colagreco surely rings a bell. The Italian-Argentine personality is one of the most famous chefs in the world, and is a recipient of many prestigious culinary awards. Michelin star? Three. The 50 Best list? Of course.

The celebrated chef received his third Michelin star in 2019 for Mirazur, the French fine-dining eatery that he founded in Menton in 2006 when he was only 29. This recognition made him the first holder of three stars in the French Michelin Guide who wasn’t born in France. 2019 was also the year Mirazur topped the list of World’s 50 Best Restaurants. 

Fortunately for us, Colagreco has shared his gifts with Bangkok. His restaurant at the Capella hotel is your best path to indulging in dishes created by one of the best chefs in the world.

Located just above the hotel lobby, Côte is hidden away from the public eye to assure utmost guest privacy. Warm natural light and expansive views of the Chao Phraya River seen through floor-to-ceiling windows magnify the magical appeal of Côte’s dining chamber—now you know why we prefer going there during the day. And then there is the Escapade lunch menu.

Created by Chef Davide Garavaglia, Escapade encapsulates the tempting flavors of the cuisine of the French and Italian Riviera in four courses (just enough to fill you up for the day). After being served a complimentary amuse-bouche (changes daily), your “coastal journey” begins with a cold ratatouille with fresh sardines and basil vinaigrette, a lighter version of the classic Provencal dish. This is followed by The Perfect Egg, Côte’s twist on eggs and soldiers. In this version, an egg is slow-bathed in 64-degree water for 45 minutes before being served with ginger-infused bread. 

There are two equally flavorful mains to choose from: Iberico pork rack with parsnip puree and chanterelles mushroom dressed with pork jus sauce and banana vinaigrette or Monkfish, broccoli and yuzu with sauce made of anchovies and cream. Lunch ends on a high note with a refreshing dessert. Choose between the mascarpone with shiso sorbet and strawberry or the white chocolate with pineapple sorbet. 

All in all, the four courses are served in just the right portions to fulfill the Asian appetite, while each dish successfully embodies the principles of French cuisine without disregarding the need for lighter fare in a hot, tropical country. Most importantly, at just B1,500, this meal is value for money and worth every baht you’re paying. (It’s a great introductory option for diners who are just discovering the joys of fine dining.)

You can also opt for the cheese and wine pairing menu (when available) for a small additional cost. 

Please note that the lunch menu changes regularly, depending on what's in season. The aforementioned dishes might not be available during your visit. Please check with the staff before you order.