Just opened in Soi Sukhumvit 49, Mallard is giving carnivores more to be excited about, offering an impressive selection of wild, exotic meat.
Taking over the streetfront bistro of Adelphi Forty-Nine hotel, Mallard is heavily spruced up in jungle-inspired decor, from a leafy patio packed with potted plants and wild animal statues to African-style interiors festooned with antler-shaped chandeliers, rustic pottery and tribal trinkets set against leather and wooden furniture. A sleek cocktail bar takes over the establishment’s dimly lit center.
Turkish-born chef Semet Mehmet, who has wowed us with modern Nordic creations at Mallard’s brother restaurant Invite, is in charge of the kitchen. Mehmet tones down the fuss and the frill, letting the proteins do the talking with help from home-style cooking techniques. Try the eponymous dish—roasted mallard with lavender (B880). Despite its coarse texture, the bird is juicy, well-seasoned and aromatic, and perfectly accompanied by corncake and sautéed chestnuts. Also parading in the menu are other game meats like deer, wild boar and quail.
If exotic meat is not your cup of tea, Mallard also churns out hearty offerings from domesticated animals, like beef tartare topped with creamy egg yolk and a sprinkling of truffle (B330) or a tender grilled chicken with garlic and rosemary, served alongside spicy chimichurri sauce (B340).
Mallard is not exactly the ideal place for inventive grub, but its comforting and homecooked meals are done right, and make it worth Sereechai Puttes Sereechai Puttes the detour.