In any neighborhood of Bangkok, there are the locals – places that aren’t necessarily destination restaurants, but if you live in the neighborhood, they’re essential. A simple, reasonably priced sushi counter, a cozy corner bar, and of course the Isan restaurant that offers spicy, no-nonsense classics with plenty of sticky rice and cold beer.
And in lower Silom, that niche is fulfilled by ‘Hai’ Som Tam Convent. The quotation marks are on the sign, and you’ll rarely hear anyone call it anything other than just ‘Som Tam Convent’. It’s a classic shophouse setup, open to the street, with formica tables and plastic stools, just delicious, inexpensive Isan dishes served with shocking efficiency – you’ll be amazed how quickly your food hits the table.
As the name suggests, the som tam is a must, heavy on the green chilis as well as red, providing a slightly fresher, greener profile, which plays particularly well with funkier and more fermented components. The tam khai khem (spicy papaya salad with salted duck egg, dried salted prawn and roasted peanuts) is particularly impressive, with melt-in-your-mouth salted duck egg soaking up the flavorful sauce. The gai yang (grilled chicken) that accompanies it is dark and gorgeously caramelized, and the tom saeb (spicy and sour soup with pork spare ribs) is a no-holds-barred smack in the face of Northeastern flavor.
Is it worth crossing town for? Probably not, because you probably have an equivalent in your neighborhood. But like Ekkamai’s Sabai Jai or Rangnam’s Rot Det, it’s a neighborhood institution, an Isan joint that does the business and does it well. For Silom office workers needing a quick lunch, and for Silom party boys needing some energy before hitting the clubs a hop skip and a jump away in Soi 4, there are few better options.