...according to Takayuki Shimata
The Japanese-born inspector of Tokyo’s acclaimed second-hand shop Brand Off, talks bags and watches and how to resell them at good prices.
Japan is one of the world’s largest consumers of luxury fashion goods. But it’s also one of the biggest disposers of luxury goods. Tokyo’s streets are dotted with shops selling pre-owned designer items. Pop in and you’ll find everything from limited-edition bags to gemstone-set watches. Japan has mastered the art of second-hand retailing that its resale system has been praised as one of Asia’s—if not the world’s—best. Part of this is owed to “inspectors,” credible and knowledgeable professionals who inspect, classify and guarantee the authenticity of pre-owned designer products. One of Tokyo’s most famous second-hand shops, Brand Off, is debuting in Bangkok and has imported an in-house Japanese inspector to give everything that sells in the store the seal of approval.
Passion and knowledge make you a good inspector
I’ve been an inspector for 17 years—15 with Brand Off. Before that I was a fashion designer, and it’s a good compliment because to be an inspector you need to know fashion and to know how to mind the details.
Experience is key
It’s really difficult to certify if is a product is 100-percent authentic. You must learn from your job and build up experience. There’s no place to learn, you need to be hands-on with a lot of different kinds of [luxury] products; feel the material and look at the small details that would make a difference. I also learned from inspectors who were my seniors.
The Japanese inspection system is credible for a reason
We mind every detail. There are specific ways to inspect each kind of product, whether it’s a bag or a watch. For example, if it’s a watch, we would start from its face, then bezel, and all the visible details to find out if any part of it has been altered. But things get more complicated for bags, which require a more intensive inspection. We start from the outside then continue to the interior of the bag where we have to check the code tag and the number, which is unique to the bag. We apply the same procedure to all bags. The more luxurious it is, the more difficult it becomes to inspect. We then classify the bag into five grades: brand new, S (which applies to bags that are bought but were never used), and A, B, and C. We also talk to the seller to agree on an asking price.
Louis Vuitton remains the most resellable brand
In all my years as an inspector, Louis Vuitton bags—those with the monogram, to be precise—have passed through my hands the most.
Clean bags command higher prices
Consider giving your bag a “spa treatment” before selling it so you can ask for a higher price. Make sure you keep the certificate and the dust bag it originally came in.
Not all limited editions sell for a good price
Prices go by demand. Popular bags usually get good resell prices. Limited-edition bags however, may not command a high resell price if they’re no longer popular at the time of sale.
Neither do Birkins
Of course, [Hermes] Birkin bags are popular, but not as much as a few years ago. [The price] also depends on its material and color—black remains the most popular choice. The popularity and demand for bags always change. Not long ago, the Celine Trapeze and Fendi Peekaboo were hot and in high demand. However, the most expensive bag we have now is a purple crocodile-skinned Birkin [priced at B980,000].