Bali has always had two distinct draws: the sun-drenched coasts with its buzzing beach clubs and the enchanting forests and rice paddies in its interior. If you’re a diehard beach bum, Anantara Ubud Bali Resort will convince you to spare a few days up north. This five-star resort in a quieter neighbourhood of Ubud is the definition of tranquillity, transporting guests back to “Bali as it was 40 years ago”, as a world-weary traveller might say with no little amount of nostalgia.
Anantara Ubud cascades down a hillside facing the lush Payangan rainforest in a design that will remind you of the terraced rice fields that Ubud is so famous for. It all originates from the impressive main building, its massive columns holding up the lobby and four dining venues. Every feature of the place calls attention to the enchanting outdoors – slatted folding doors in the lobby frame green, waving fronds; floor-to-ceiling windows wrap around the excellent signature restaurant Amerta; and alfresco bar Sulang Lounge leads out to one of the hotel’s two heated pools, which itself seems to hang suspended over the treetops. On a clear day, you can even see the conical peaks of Mount Agung and Mount Batur from the afternoon tea spot, Lobby Lounge.
The suites are carved stepwise into the hillside, accessible by an inclined elevator. Connected by an intricate network of stairs are the private villas – ours a one-bedroom abode with a private pool. The villa is spacious yet charmingly cosy: a neutral palette of beige and grey given warmth by dark wood panels and framed Balinese art. Again, the forest is the star. Massive glass sliding doors in the living room and bedroom frame the Payangan rainforest, which stretches seemingly unbroken to the horizon. A thoughtful little detail: a panel over the bathroom sink that you can swing open to perform your morning ablutions with a view. When we were not decompressing in the free-standing bathtub, it was a real pleasure to laze on the cloud-like king bed or sink into the couches, sliding doors thrown wide open to enjoy the cool air and birdsong.
Wellness is central to the Anantara brand, and we don’t just mean the spa (although the 90-minute Taksu Massage worked us into a blissed-out putty). Director of Spa-Wellness & Recreation Made Warnata has curated a series of unique local experiences ranging from spiritual wellness to eco-adventure. We were whirled away to a Balinese home where High Priest Idha Guru Sri Empu led us through Agni Yajna, an ancient Vedic ritual meant to purge negative energies.
Anantara Ubud’s resident Naturalist also brought us on an exclusive and eye-opening tour through the nearby Taro village. Besides familiarising ourselves with local plants like moringa and cham cham, it was a unique opportunity to learn about Bring Back The Light, a program by local conservationist Wayan Wardika. This initiative aims to revive the firefly population in Bali, firstly through research at the on-site laboratory and in partnership with scientists around the region; and secondly, by educating and supporting local farmers in adopting pesticide-free farming practices. These experiences, like a secret window into the lives, beliefs and practices of the Balinese, are truly priceless.
Neighbourhood
Anantara Ubud Bali Resort is tucked away in a blissfully quiet part of Ubud, Gianyar Regency. When you’re ready to leave the resort’s peaceful embrace, it’s a short ride to popular attractions like Ceking Rice Terrace, Ubud Art Market, and the neighbourhood's many lifestyle boutiques and art galleries. Explore on your own or arrange a trip with Anantara Ubud, which runs immersion tours that will take you to secret waterfalls and sunrise points.
Nearby
Don’t just stare at Mount Batur or Mount Agung from the resort’s Lobby Lounge. How about a trek to their respective summits instead? Mount Batur is closer – and makes for a much easier trek. There are plenty of tour companies that will arrange everything for you: from pick-up and a pre-hike snack, to guiding and breakfast at the summit. Tack on a visit to Tukad Cepung Waterfall while you’re in this part of Bali.
Time Out tip
The resort is a two-hour drive from I Gusti Ngurah Rai International Airport, so plan accordingly. Bali’s traffic jams are notorious, so speak to the staff and get their advice on an appropriate departure time from the airport. They can arrange a transfer (and even prepare a takeaway meal for you) to ensure your journey runs smoothly.