‘Schifoan ist des leiwandste,’ as they say in Austria (that’s ‘skiing is the coolest’ to the uninitiated). Given that about 60 percent of the country is covered in mountains, it’s hardly surprising that skiing runs in our blood in Austria – a lifelong love affair for those of us who have been lucky enough to call this place home.
I was first put on skis near Zell Am See at the age of four and decades later, I’m still making an annual pilgrimage to the Austrian Alps. In that time, I’ve been skiing as a child, as a teenager when I briefly dabbled with snowboarding, as an overconfident 20-plus year-old and as a more cautious middle-ager. Nowadays I also join my school friends and watch their kids having as much fun as we did.
Skiing is undeniably a privilege but the beautiful scenery, the fresh air and the sheer unbridled fun of it makes it worth every euro cent – be it on one of the panoramic glacial resorts or from one of the traditional small villages Austria is famed for. ‘Gemütlichkeit’ is a term often associated with Austria and, while there’s no direct English translation, the sense of cosiness it conveys is still what I feel whenever I come ‘home’. For there is nothing better than warming up with a Glühwein and tucking into a hearty plate of Kaiserschmarrn for those with a sweet tooth – or a Tiroler Gröstl for those who prefer savoury, like me – in a rustic mountain hut at the end of a hard day’s skiing.
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Everything you need to know about skiing in Austria
With more than 400 ski resorts, Austria punches above its weight on winter holiday options compared to its European rivals. Skiing is an integral part of local life here, and the majority of its top resorts are super easy to get to, less than two hours from Salzburg or Innsbruck airports (and you mostly don’t need a car either). So if you’re looking for a quick weekend ski trip, Austria is the place.
Most Austrian ski resorts open in December, although some higher ones will open in November depending on snow. The end of the season is generally late March or April, with higher resorts staying open later – at Stubai and Kitzsteinhorn, skiing is available pretty much year-round. Peak season runs from late December to early March, and February is particularly busy with locals and tourists.
Accommodation varies from self-catering to guest houses and five-star spa hotels, but all of them are operating at a pretty high standard. If you’re looking for a package deal from the UK, Inghams and Crystal Ski are two of the longest-running providers, although bear in mind that many hotels also offer deals on ski passes, equipment rental and transfers if you want to book yourself.
Where to go skiing in Austria
1. Kitzbühel
The medieval Tyrolean town of Kitzbühel is one of Austria’s most exclusive resorts, home to 233km of pistes and the world’s longest ski circuit, the KitzSkiWelt Tour. ‘Kitz’ is particularly popular with luxury travellers – it’s sometimes called the ‘Crown Jewel of the Alps’ – although there’s a range of accommodation options available.
Stay here: Kitzhof Mountain Design Resort
2. Obertauern
Austria’s ‘snowiest’ ski resort, and the highest in Salzburgerland, is great for intermediate skiers with more than 100km of pistes on the doorstep of what is known as the ‘snow bowl’. Obertauern resort successfully caters to both families and party animals, and music fans will appreciate its links to the Beatles, who filmed Help! here in 1965.
Stay here: Alpenhotel Perner
3. Neustift im Stubaital
An easy hour-long transfer from Innsbruck, this traditional Tyrolean village is just one of several in the valley up to the Stubai Gletscher, Austria’s biggest glacial ski area and one of the world’s highest at 3,210m, with 65km of pistes and accessed by ski bus. Real enthusiasts can upgrade their ski pass to cover 12 ski regions and a whopping 265km of Neustift im Stubaital’s pistes.
Stay here: Hotel Bergjuwel
4. Flachau
The key benefit of the lively resort of Flachau is being in the heart of Snow Space Salzburg, where you can easily ski over to other villages via 120km of pistes, and be connected directly to the wider Ski Amadé area. There’s also plenty to do here for snowboarders, cross country skiers and even non-skiers, including the thermal baths in nearby Altenmarkt.
Stay here: Almdorf Almlust
5. St Anton
Known as the ‘cradle of alpine skiing’ due to the ski technique developed here, guests have access to the largest ski area in Austria, with 300km of pistes in the Arlberg region. St Anton is great for advanced skiers and popular for its lively apres-ski scene. My top tip? Book a hotel in one of the nearby villages and use the free ski bus – it’ll save you a load of cash.
Stay here: ALPtyrol Appartements
6. Saalbach-Hinterglemm
The Ski Circus Saalbach Hinterglemm Leogang Fieberbrenn is one of Europe’s finest, with 70 lifts and 270km of pistes – and now even connects all the way to Zell Am See-Kaprun ski area thanks to a new lift. Saalbach is also known for being one of Austria’s prettiest ski villages, with its onion-domed church surrounded by timber houses.
Stay here: Hotel DIE SONNE
7. Sölden
Film fans may recognise Sölden from James Bond movie Spectre where it featured as a wintry lair, something celebrated at 3,050m with the 007 Elements exhibition and ice Q restaurant. The resort is great for skiing too, with 144km of pistes and access to two glaciers, but mark my words – the food served on the mountain is some of the finest ski fodder in Austria.
Stay here: The Secret Sölden
8. Maria Alm
Maria Alm is an entry point to Salzburgerland’s Hochkönig ski region, covering 120km of pistes including the 35km Königstour panoramic route that runs from one end to the other and back again. Somewhat off the beaten track for Brits, the picture-perfect village has plenty of interesting accommodation options and restaurants to choose from.
Stay here: Jufenalm BOHO Hotel & Restaurant
9. Serfaus-Fiss-Ladis
Serfaus and its neighbouring villages of Fiss and Ladis make it one of Tyrol’s greatest family-friendly resorts, with three-quarters of its 161km of pistes aimed at beginner and intermediate skiers. The linked area is known for its child-friendly hotels and excellent ski schools, with a new 10-person lift able to carry 3,500 passengers an hour.
Stay here: Nagalu
10. Seefeld
Just half an hour away from Innsbruck, the small resort of Seefeld is popular with people who want to travel by train. The pace of life tends to be a lot slower here and many skiers come here to enjoy the cosy mountain huts as well as the 26km of skiing on the high plateau at 2,000m above sea level. Free ski buses connect to other nearby ski areas.
Stay here: Alte Schmiede Hiltpolt
Ready for the slopes?
With its top-class pistes, excellent infrastructure and great variety of accommodation options, Austria genuinely does have something for skiers of every ability.
There’s more than just skiing too. Many hotels are equipped with wellness areas to relax in after a hard day’s skiing, and lots of the resorts also have thermal spas for a dip. However, please note that Austrian saunas tend to be strictly swimsuit free. You’ve been warned!
Just remember, the best way to warm up after a day’s skiing is in one of the rustic huts Austria is renowned for with a hot chocolate and an apfelstrüdel. You’ve earned it, after all.
📍 Looking to extend your stay in Austria? Check out our lists of the best hotels in Vienna, the best restaurants in Vienna and the best things to do in Salzburg.