It’s understandable why you might gravitate towards the beach when looking for accommodation in Sri Lanka, but Tri Koggala – with its infinity pool looking over a mass of blue, untouched lake, a singular palm tree framing the scene – is enough to outshine the island’s most golden shores. There’s a sense of secrecy and unspoilt natural beauty here that is becoming increasingly rare on this side of the country, making Tri the ideal choice if you want a romantic getaway for the books.
Tucked away down a private road just a 15-minute drive from Ahangama on the coast, this boutique hotel is calm, cool and clean. I arrived at breakfast time and was greeted with cinnamon iced tea in a champagne flute – a theme which is woven throughout the property via subtle, thoughtful touches like cinnamon-smelling shower gel and the opportunity to visit local spice makers on a private boat tour of the lake. Speaking of which, the property is dedicated to preserving its stunning surroundings, avoiding plastic use as well as embarking on a planting project to nurture and protect the lake’s shoreline.
The grounds centre around the magnificent two-centuries-old Banyan tree
The relaxed communal pool area doubles as a lobby and reception, with tasteful, understated day beds and contemporary takes on mid-century furniture. Below this, you’ll find the lakeside restaurant, which serves up international dishes like a full English, burgers and fries as well as delicious Sri Lankan classics (the coconut roti breakfast should not be missed). The rest of the grounds centre around the magnificent two-centuries-old Banyan tree, with its knotted, sprawling roots and branches stretching out wide and strong. Behind this, there’s the water tower: a modern structure housing a collection of the cosier-sized rooms and an aerial lookout up top which is perfect for sunset drinks on your request. There’s also a swish glass-fronted building hosting an open plan gym, where you can organise yoga classes, in addition to a well-stocked library and quiet, tucked-away spa. In other words? Style is everywhere, and facilities are top-notch.
Our villa, privately tucked away on the lakeside, had its own mini swimming pool overlooking the water and sunbeds to chill at our own pace, revelling in the peace. Inside was light, bright and high-ceilinged, featuring a spacious bathroom with a freestanding tub, twin sinks and a waterfall shower, as well as a lounging area, two balconies and the star of the show: the large, luxurious bed looking directly out onto the lake via huge, glass-fronted sliding doors. Throwing them open while lying in bed, still half asleep, while the sun crept up and the birds tweeted over the water was a whole new level of bliss.
A lot of care has been put into the design of this property, and the result is a place that is tasteful and chic but also feels deeply romantic, topped off with a superb level of service: the staff are genuinely happy to help and go out of their way to ensure you have the most special time here. It would be very hard not to.
Neighbourhood
Tri Koggala is tucked away right next to the tranquil waters of Lake Koggala, though you’re only a short tuktuk journey away from Ahangama, the beach town turned hip surfer’s paradise and digital nomad pit stop. Head slightly further north and you’ll arrive in the charming colonial town of Fort Galle via Unawatuna, which boasts loads more palm-tree lined golden sands. In other words? Tri is excellently placed as a base to explore more of Sri Lanka’s south-east coast, though be warned: the property is so idyllic you might not want to leave.
Nearby
Koggala Lake is one of Sri Lanka’s largest natural bodies of water, with eight small islands dotted throughout. Book a boat tour of Cinnamon Island from the property and see the lake from a different angle while learning how the locals produce the spice.
Trax Ahangama is a cool, well-curated cocktail bar with a huge garden-slash-smoking area and hi-fi sound system. Head here for sushi before a dance to one of their international DJ bookings.
Time Out Tip
Sri Lanka is known for its sun, but some days might be overcast or rainy. Luckily, Tri is home to a gorgeous, glass-fronted library packed with coffee-table art house photo books and local histories that you can get lost in for hours on end – it’s worth checking out, whatever the weather. Also, there are only 11 rooms here (often, it really does feel like you have the place all to yourself), so be sure to book ahead.