Estherea

Spread over several charming canal houses at the epicentre of the elegant canal district, this private hotel has been run by the same family for decades. The emphasis in this place is on understated, simple luxury: rooms are swathed in Fortuny-style fabrics and come equipped with DVDs and marble bathrooms, ensuring that once you're in, you won't want to stray from your front door. As well as the more usual bar, there's a guests' library.