The cultural dialogue between Japan and France has been a long and fruitful one, from the latter country’s Japonisme art boom through to the perennial Japanese love for French fashion. Food is a key part of this conversation, and Apothéose is a standout example. At this new Toranomon Hills restaurant, fine French cuisine makes maximum use of ingredients nurtured by Japan’s climate.
Attention to detail abounds in this space situated 250 metres above ground, offering superb after-dark views. Lighting and certain other design elements are courtesy of Space Copenhagen, who also worked on the acclaimed Noma, while ambient background sounds (such as the flow of mountain spring water) were produced by a sound design team.
Apothéose’s opening marks a homecoming for chef Keita Kitamura, who most recently served as a chef de cuisine at the Michelin-starred Restaurant ERH in Paris. While conceiving his new venture, Kitamura took the time to travel around his homeland and connect with producers who now supply Apothéose.
This dedication is evident in Kitamura’s new kitchen, where Apothéose’s sole dinner offering (¥25,000) is fine-tuned each and every day. His cauliflower tart, which arrives on a distinctive driftwood-style vessel, conveys both the scents of Asian spices and the textures of Japanese vegetables, while the legume hachette contains no less than 15 kinds of seasonal vegetable. These are sourced from an organic farm in Hokkaido, then steamed with a small amount of water and oil (a method known as échouvet) to gently heighten their natural flavour.
Text by Darren Gore