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hawker heritage
Photograph: John T/ Unsplash

Is Singapore really safeguarding its hawker heritage?

We're all for Singapore's UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage bid but first we need to address the long-standing issues faced by our hawkers

Delfina Utomo
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Delfina Utomo
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Where would Singapore be without our beloved hawkers? Who would dish out cheap bowls of noodles for our lunch runs or feed us when we're pulled yet another late night in the office? That hawker centres are a quintessential part of Singapore life is stating a fact, so when Prime Minister Lee Hsien Loong announced during the 2018 National Day Rally that Singapore was putting up a bid to protect hawker culture under the UNESCO Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity the whole city cheered. The joy was short lived though, as along with the spotlight came a long list of challenges our hardworking hawkers face and the insidious problems facing the trade.

The Good

As part of its efforts leading up to the UNESCO decision, organisations such as the National Heritage Board have been reaching out to the public to gather support to back the bid. From colourful campaigns and “voting counters” that in iconic hawker centres like  to meeting and hearing out what hawkers have to say on-the-ground, various government boards, bodies and agencies have gone all out to fulfil the public backing criteria for the bid. 

On a global scales, hawker centres have also received more international recognition too, thanks to movies like Crazy Rich Asians – and its much debated Newton Food Centre montage – as well as shows like No Reservations and Parts Unknown by the late Anthony Bourdain. In an epsiode of Parts Unknown, the travel host described Singapore as "possibly the most food-centric place on Earth, with the most enthusiastic diners, the most varied and abundant, affordable dishes – available for cheap – on a per-square-mile basis". An advocate of hawker centres as the solution to saving street food around the world, Bourdain voiced how the Singapore method should be the ideal for keeping traditions alive and affordable for the next generation – so clearly we've been doing some things right.

The Bad

Photograph: Jian Bo Shui Kueh

Once the rose-tinted glasses come off, it's impossible to deny the harsh realities faced by hawkers: rising rental costs and materials, contract issues with landlords and suppliers, the stigma of the trade and more. 

On an episode of Talking Point, it was revealed that a hawker’s profit margin was as low as 20 to 30 cents which really is no way to be earning a living. In the episode, Mr Tan Kim Leng, who sells prawn noodles at Tiong Bahru Market and Food Centre said that the price of ingredients they used when he first started in the trade has more than doubled over the years. The only thing that hasn’t changed? The prices of the dishes.

What we hope to see in 2019

Widely regarded as the godfather of modern-Singaporean cuisineand a champion of our hawkers, Willin Low, the chef-owner of Wild Rocket, Wild Oats and Relish says in an interview with CNN Travel, "Our hawker heritage differentiated us from other countries. It unites Singaporeans from different ethnic backgrounds, but it looks like the heritage is thinning."

Like it or not, we – and our wallets – have to be the change. We need to adjust the perception that hawker food shouldn't cost more than $5, and the attitude of entitlement. It's one thing to complain about paying extra for ingredients or for an additional bowl of soup, and another to believe that we are entitled to that soup for free.

Lim Jialang, who runs Smith Street Taps puts it most succintly. He says on a New Naratif podcast about surviving the hawker trade, “It’s quite funny because the people who are actually doing the work are saying “Please don’t be a hawker” and then we also have the people who are not doing the work, who are basically saying “Yes, please be a hawker” and that’s where we are in terms of rhetoric.”

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