Where to stay in Rome: a local’s guide to the best areas

Best for: art galleries, piazza life, and must-see sights

A short walk from the Pantheon and Piazza Navona, Campo de’ Fiori lies in the heart of Rome (and has the crowds and prices to prove it). The square itself is home to one of the city’s most popular daily markets, and converts into a lively destination for drinks at night. Start the day with Borromini’s perplexing optical illusion at Galleria Spada then switch art gears with the contemporary exhibits at Galleria Lorcan O’Neill. Cultural appetite satiated, grab a cappuccino and decadent pastries at Barnum, then book a table in Roscioli’s wine cellar and dig into one of the best carbonaras in the city. Finally, track down the password and finish the night sipping speakeasy cocktails at the Jerry Thomas Project.

Stay here: fancy splashing out? Book Hotel Campo de’ Fiori, where your terrace will literally overlook St Peter’s Basilica. Or opt for the more affordable Hotel Damaso. 

Best for: retro stores and Colosseum views

Whether your jam is archaeological ruins, hunting down independent designers or sipping on cheap drinks in a picturesque square, Monti has a little something for everyone. The fashionable neighbourhood only ends because it hits the Forum on one end and the Colosseum on another, making the Bohemian enclave an ideal base for exploring the ancient areas of the city. However, the real appeal of the area is probably mostly down to its pretty streets, lined with a fabulous mix of vintage stores (including Roman-staple Pifebo) and buzzing wine bars like Al Vino Al Vino.

Stay here: Monti is brimming with chic hotels, such as Casa Monti and Fifteen Keys, the latter of which takes its name from the number of rooms it offers – 15 unique and modern spaces inside a townhouse-style former office building. 

Best for: restaurants, markets and Roman daily life

When in Rome, live as the Romans do. Testaccio was once considered to be on the periphery of the city, but today the trendy neighborhood with working class roots is a destination in its own right. The affordable area feels miles away from tourist crowds but is well connected to Rome’s major sights by public transport – meaning the Colosseum is just a five-minute metro trip away. Thanks to a (now decommissioned) slaughterhouse, many of the city’s culinary traditions started in the area and Testaccio’s foodie reputation remains well deserved. Snag a morning table at impossibly cool Marigold Roma, wander the stalls at Mercato di Testaccio, and make sure lunch plans include a meal at Flavio al Velavevodetto, a bustling trattoria known for its hearty Roman classics. 

Stay here: this isn’t a spot for flashy chain hotels, but you can get a room with a lovely balcony at Althea Inn. 

Best for: postcard-worthy street scenes and boisterous night life

Once the home of artists and artisans, Trastevere remains one of Rome’s most charming quarters. The area, across the Tiber from most of the Eternal City’s major monuments, is filled with small ivy-draped lanes that spiral away from a bustling central square. By night, some of the scenic alleyways are packed with revelers indulging in fishbowl-sized spritzes, but Trastevere still manages to hold on to plenty of authentic appeal. Make time to take in the Raphael frescoes at Villa Farnesina, and then wander south of Viale Trastevere (the calmer end of the popular neighborhood) to browse used tomes at the Almost Corner Bookshop. Having explored the pretty corners of the riverside district, relax with craft pints at Ma Che Siete Venuti a Fa and pizza from L’elementare. 

Stay here: housed in a building dating to 1122, Relais Le Clarisse was once a church cloister. The hotel still shares a wall with the original church, but the space has been recently remade into 18 rustic-style rooms.

Best for: major monuments, luxury brands and A-list hotels

For those who want to walk out the door and straight into the Eternal City’s enchanting centre, Tridente near Piazza del Popolo is a perfect pick. The neighbourhood is shaped by three main roads (hence its ‘trident’ name), including Via del Corso—Rome’s most popular avenue for shopping. In addition to countless luxury brand flagship stores, the area also hosts prime sights like the Trevi Fountain and the Spanish Steps, plus a hearty helping Old-World charm in its quieter corners. Let the cobblestone streets lead you to the chocolate fountain at Venchi gelateria, followed by some of the best pasta of your life at Gino al Parlamento. Post lunch, rest and reset at the lavish Six Senses Rome spa, finally wrapping up the neighborhood tour with a rooftop cocktail above the Fendi boutique at Zuma.

Stay here: the First Arte has splurge-worthy rooms filled with modern masterpieces and an unbeatable rooftop bar with views for days.

Best for: late-night drinking and serious character

Splashed with street art, Pigneto has long been a gathering place for creatives along the eastern edge of the city. Neo-Realist Italian director Pier Paolo Pasolini famously used the Liberty-style villini (detached houses) of the neighborhood as a living backdrop for his social commentary cinema. The vibrant soul of the area is best experienced along Via del Pigneto—a pedestrianised street known as the isola (island) that hosts a market by day but becomes Rome’s mecca for nightlife after the shops close and the bars start to spill patrons outside. Before heading out for a night on the town, grab an aperitivo in the garden of 100-year-old Necci and sample traditional Roman dishes at eternally popular Pigneto 41.

Stay here renting an apartment is the best way to get the full Pigneto experience, but Eurostars Roma Aeterna hotel has convenient and comfortable rooms steps from the neighbourhood’s main thoroughfare.