Terminus Nord

The Terminus Nord, one of the ubiquitous Flo Group brasseries, sits directly across from the Gare du Nord along a strip lined with a number of other establishments offering sustenance for hurried travellers. The Terminus, however, is clearly one of the brighter places on the block. Visitors will know they're in Paris the minute they step into this immense brasserie, with its brusque, white-apron clad waiters and cosmopolitan clientele. The impressive decor is art deco, with high ceilings, towering mirrors, sleek lines and banquettes. The food is typical Flo fare, with a heavy leaning towards fish and shellfish. During a recent visit we saw several tables happily feasting on gigantic ice-lined seafood platters. We started with freshly shucked oysters, a delicious remoulade of cod, and a generous portion of fish soup, served in its own tureen with the traditional toppings of shredded cheese, toasted baguette and an intense, garlicky rouille. The choucroute was a bit ordinary and too much for one, with mounds of sauerkraut topped with a thick slice of pork and at least three different sausages. For something lighter try the assiette nordique, with a variety of smoked fish, or the more classic sole meunière. No surprises for dessert, with offerings such as tarte Tatin, crème brûlée and profiteroles.