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This unpretentious little bistro in the heart of the Marais is a good place for bacchanalian carousing. The chalkboard menu lists the sort of dishes a country French grandmother might have cooked, made with top quality products and accompanied by sophisticated local vintages. A glass of Montagne Saint-Emilion or Morgon Vieilles Vignes goes well with a gratin of andouillette (a strong-smelling intestine sausage), the house special of a hot streaky bacon tart, or deliciously tender faux-filet of beef from Salers. The fish is super fresh, with a choice of vegetables that varies with the daily deliveries. When they’re on the menu, we recommend the moist and savoury scallops, matched with a Pouilly Fumé. If you’re on a budget, a very respectable daily set menu is on offer at €13. If your lunch gets a bit debauched, make sure you still hold out for a digestif, a Grand Champagne cognac or a well oaked calvados from the Pays d’Auge area of Normandy. A great place that doesn’t mess with tradition.
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