Eric Wapler and chef Thierry Bassard join forces to create radioeat, a new restaurant in Maison de la Radio.
Palais de Tokyo - Paris’ seat of contemporary art - often divides opinion. From stark minimalism to outlandish "what is it?" creations, exhibitions often conjure a love-it or hate-it reaction. Would Les Grands Verres, the institution's latest foray into cuisine, have the same result? On paper, it seems to be a winner in teaming up with Quixotic Projects (the innovative group behind bars and restaurants Candelaria, Glass, Mary Celeste and Hero) and Lina Ghotmeh for the design. With 170 covers, the space already has one thing in common with the exhibitions - it’s giant. A sea of hanging lightbulbs, light wooden tables, artisanal crockery - Les Grands Verres is divided into two. Intimate box-style seating fills the first section, with the bar to the right and kitchen to the left. Beyond, there are larger, open plan tables with a more convivial spirit. The crowd is chic but diverse; couples, big groups of friends, and families. Given the location near big attractions and arty types that Palais de Tokyo brings in, you can envisage all sorts here. Right, onto the serious stuff. It's classed as Neo-Mediterranean, although the menu seems open to artistic interpretation. Mussels with Indian spices, celery and parsley butter; fattoush salad; a whole baked artichoke. We plumped for the fresh sounding melons and tomatoes - a colour pop of watermelon, yellow, black and red tomatoes, and honeydew melon. Pollock-flicked with bright green olive oil, it’s a masterpiece on the plate and in
If Café de Flore is synonymous for the croque monsieur, then BREIZH Café is renowned for the galette. The history of the Breton institution begins in Japan, not France. After opening the country’s first crêperie - Le Bretagne - in the Kagurazaka neighborhood of Tokyo, then two more in Yokohama and Kawasaki, the word BREIZH was the international marker point for an excellent crêpe. In 2006 the name finally came to Paris with the Marais opening steadfastly popular with locals and die-hard Japanese fans. Starting the now popular wave of no-reservations, BREIZH Marais is famed for its snaking queue*, well before opening. More chains arrived, including Saint-Malo and Cancale in France, and a cider bar in Japan, proving that BREIZH Café hasn’t lost it’s touch. Now, BREIZH Cafe Odéon arrives, can it replicate the success of the Marais outpost? Do we need another crêperie in Paris? Well, yes, when they’re done this well. Top quality trimmings like succulent ham inside the classic fried egg and Shiitake mushrooms; decadent langoustines paired with spinach, leeks and Comte cheese; or a rich blend of ham, truffle and cauliflower purée. Some come in a typical galette, others in a new Breizh roll - which is, as you might fathom, a rolled galette, chopped up into morsels. There’s a nod to Japan in the form of the Breizh Tsukemono made with fermented vegetables, and a crêpe Suzette flambéed in Yuzu and matcha ice cream for dessert. And if you’re not into crêpes (not 100% sure why you’d
Crêpes, cocktails. Paris is no stranger to either, but recently they’ve joined forces to start a little trend. Kasha (meaning ‘buckwheat flour’ in Russian) on the already foodie rue des Récollets, is now part of the tribe. Started by three industry rising stars, with a collective CV that includes chez Jeannette, Enfants Perdus (next door), L'Arpège and Garance, Kasha is another great address within sight of the Canal Saint Martin. The deco is pure Instagram fodder, pink-white walls, hexagonal mirror tiles, hanging plants, and mint-green leather benches. An oasis as edible as the scents from the kitchen… Drinks up and the cocktail list, created by the team behind our favourite Monsieur Antoine, is concise and unique. Bespoke creations include Larme, a buttercup coloured concoction of Pisco, vanilla syrup, egg yolk and lemon; Titre, with Calvados and bergamote; or Factory, a simple gin and tonic with rosemary. Good options for those that aren’t keen on cider, but if you do - the list is long as any wine list. If you arrive hungry and want a starter, there are some well-executed dips: a nutty houmous, curried aubergine; and fromage frais, all served with fried galette chips. A good accompaniment to the cocktails. Down to the main event. Savory galettes range from an excellent black pudding with apples soaked in Calvados, and goats’ yoghurt; to roasted carrots with curry, fromage frais and toasted grains; and smoked salmon with rainbow beetroot. There’s a classic egg and ham
If there’s one new Paris restaurant that’s been making a splash on Instagram lately, it’s The Cod House. Why? The deco, in particular the eponymous neon sign that welcomes you into the building. It’s another name from Groupe Black Code, who have fostered equally shiny and successful names including Orient Extrême, Kinugawa and Yoko. On first impressions, the design is as wonderful as social media has made it out to be, and the crowd as chic as you’d expect from the 6th arrondissement. A concept based on Japanese izakayas, small bars where people meet around a drink and a snack, The Cod House is Japanese tapas meets Parisian cocktail bar. The building has had many lives including stints as a club and a cinema. To the left, a bar area which seemed reserved for cocktail making more than drinking, with a sofa area and small tables around it. To the right, a long dining area with a first floor mezzanine (not opened that night). Tables are tightly packed together but no one seems to mind. The menu is broken down into cold and hot dishes, rolls, boa buns, tempura, toban, sashimi, side dishes and desserts. The spectrum of Japanese food is certainly impressive, with raw fish and fried morsels both well represented. Classics get luxury upgrades, like the California roll with namesake Black Cod and miso (15€), and taramasalata with truffles (€7). A delicious Yellow Tail comes either seared with a ginger confit (14€) or as a carpaccio speckled with chili and yuzu sauce (10€). Tempura
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