L'Osteria dell'Anima

L'Osteria dell'Anima's colourful doorway, squeezed between two large shop windows, reveals a long narrow corridor that can only fit one line of tables. There's an open kitchen at the end, from which issues orders in strong Northern Italian accents, and a flour-covered table bearing a pasta machine. The familial décor is all warm colours and simple canteen-style table settings – one fork, one knife, one glass. You immediately feel at home.

There are two set menus at €12 or €16 (starter and main or starter, main and pudding). Our starter of mortadella and parmesan got things going nicely, then home made lasagne and the pasta du jour with black olives, broccoli, tomato sauce and parmesan were hugely satisfying. We still managed dessert, though­ – fine slices of pineapple dusted with cinnamon, and a proper ristretto coffee. L’Osteria Dell’Anima is a safe bet, simple and engaging, perfect for a reliable meal around the Rue Oberkampf.