What should I drink? A Rain Dog with oysters on the side.
It would be easy to walk straight past the latest venture from the team behind Candelaria and Le Glass – with its nondescript front door and simple neon sign, the Mary Céleste oyster bar looks more like a neighbourhood pizzeria than the newest, hippest destination in the Marais. But we like this lack of pretension and the big bay windows that will remain steamed up throughout winter promise great things for pavement apéros in summer. Around a bustling central bar are ranged a few stools, tables and chairs occupied by the inevitable well-dressed clientele, drawn by the hype and by the oysters that are the hook du jour – oyster happy hour runs from 5pm-7pm with Marennes-Oléron, Bouzigue and Belon varieties at €1 a throw (usually €1.50) washed down with one of the white wines from the great list at €5 a glass.
Those without a taste for these sea creatures will enjoy the sharing plates. Like Glass, Brooklyn Lager is served on draught and if you like more high-flying booze, this is certainly the right place to get it. From champagnes to rare rum brands, you’ll be spoilt for choice. Cocktails are around €12, such as the Rain Dog (Four Roses bourbon, Diesus amaro, fern syrup, mint and lemon) or the Masala Cow (Jamaican plantation rim, milk and chai masala). Even at busy times, the service is excellent.