Le Café du Commerce

The Café du Commerce has kept the name of the local gambling hall, which is was before its metamorphosis in 2011. A few partitions have come down, huge walls of mock pebbledash, revealing an enormous space dominated by a handsome bar. Comfortable banquettes sit at the back of the room, and on the walls a series of naïve frescoes of Montmartre and the Moulin Rouge, with pink lighting and vintage gadgets giving a cosy atmosphere in the evening.

During the day, the regulars linger over drink their glass of red, leafing through the papers. The lunchtime set menu is affordable, varied and very good, with good value salads and burgers (€10) a la carte. From the first rays of the sun, people gather at the big bay windows and on the terrace above the pavement. The prices are reasonable even if a little more than they generally are in the area (half pint €3, cocktails €7). Wine is a bit more by the glass (€4.60), so stick to the 50cl pichet to share (€17).

In the evenings, the bar is rammed during the happy hour from 6pm-10pm (pints from €3.60, cocktails from €5.60) and on until closing. The deal for a pint of Kronenbourg and chips at €7 is a huge success, same for the €9 tasting platters (samosa, goat’s cheese, polenta with broccoli and deep-fried courgettes). The weekends are the same story, with DJs heating up the atmosphere. Thursday night is live gigs, and Sunday night is Brazilian.