A Jean Nicot

This little bar and newsagent looks decidedly out of place, squeezed between the flashy luxury boutiques on the Rue Saint-Honoré: it seems to hail from another era. Dedicated to Jean Nicot – the French ambassador to Portugal who brought tobacco to France in the 15th century, hence for a long time it was known as ‘Nicot’s herb’ – the bar has kept the patina of nicotine on its walls, its Belle Epoque lamps, its copper bar and foldaway seats rescued from a doomed provincial cinema. The owner, his wife and son are exceptionally welcoming and friendly – it’s the sort of place you can come for a coffee and to read the paper, and attracts actors, journalists and intellectuals. It’s also the best place in the neighbourhood to eat and drink affordably. All dishes are between €10 and €13: cheese and charcuterie boards, the great salads like the Italian (sun-dried tomatoes, buffalo mozzarella, country ham and basil) and classic dishes like beef or salmon tartare. Wine comes from an honourable list of vintages by the glass, carafe or bottle.