A true mom-and-pop shop, this takeout spot is run by a couple hailing from Kunming, the capital city of the southeast Yunnan province; the local cuisine borrows from the citrus and herb focus of nearby Southeast Asia. For years, the small noodle house—which recently moved into expanded digs around the corner—has been beloved by chowhounds for its super-short menu—best-sellers include hot-and-sour soup with pork dumplings and skinny house-made rice noodles served cold with ground pork, roasted peanuts, and a bracing, sweet mix of chili oil, vinegar and soy sauce. More of those noodles are available in a light bone broth, topped with goodies like crispy pig skin, lean slices of pork and intestine, and others get tossed with a sauce of spiced minced pork.
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