wd~50 (CLOSED)

Obviously, Wylie Dufresne’s parents never scolded him for playing with his food. His far-fetched innovations can be found in riffs on the humble (air-puffed pizza pebbles) and the exalted (a creamy ribbon of foie gras slips down the throat with barely a twitch of the jaw). Although the 12-course tasting menu could be pared down (it’s possible to become blasé by the time the coffee-coated chicory ice cream arrives), you’ll still end the meal grateful Dufresne’s caprices were indulged.