Szechuan Gourmet

Flushing’s Chinatown eateries tend to skew to two extremes: They’re either fluorescent-lit canteens or Hong Kong–style palaces of glitz. Szechuan Gourmet is an exception—a quiet spot, located on a side street, serving mainland Chinese cuisine that bears little resemblance to Americanized “Szechuan” fare. Outstanding choices include peppery minced pork with cellophane noodles, garlic-bathed deep-fried chicken with chili, and ginger-sweetened crisp fried sea bass—an almost greaseless accomplishment.