Shang (CLOSED)

Toronto chef Susur Lee’s extreme brand of fusion is on display at this confounding LES eatery. The sprawling menu promises exotic ingredients, but little on the plate makes sense. A riff on Fra Diavolo subs in salty XO sauce and an “Indian tomato jam” for marinara, but the shrimp are so fiery, they send your taste buds reeling. His jerk chicken—paired with Scotch bonnet sauce and mango coulis—doesn’t outshine $5 versions sold in Flatbush. The chef fares better when he dials down the fusion. His creations here are certainly thought-provoking. If only they were as exciting to eat.