Ramen Misoya

Miso is the single-minded focus of this Japanese ramen import: Blown-up photos depicting giant wooden vats of the stuff adorn the stripped-down space, and the menu showcases three renowned regional styles of the fermented soybean paste. The miso-laced broths—including the slightly sweet shiro from Kyoto and the rich, Nagoya-style mame—produce satisfying soups, packed with chubby, wavy yellow noodles and tasty ground pork simmered overnight in miso. Some of the toppings fall short: Bland kimchi and soggy potatoes do little to elevate the bowls, while thick discs of pork char siu lack the unctuous fat and caramelized glaze of the best versions. Still, Misoya offers a fine introduction to miso’s complex regional variants. Add on gyoza and an earthy mound of soy-sauce-soaked hijiki seaweed to build a hearty, nourishing meal.