Peasant

The dining room at Peasant, one of downtown’s most celebrated Italian restaurants, is equal parts rustic and urban chic. Cement floors and metal chairs give the place an unfinished edge, while the gaping brick-oven and lengthy wooden bar provide the telltale old-world notes. Dishes that emerge from the fire are particularly good. This includes gooey speck-wrapped bocconcini (mozzarella), which arrive at the table bubbly and molten. Choose the succulent proteins, like the fork-tender porchetta or gamey lamb with smooth polenta, over the disappointingly gummy gnocchi, dressed with an otherwise pleasant creamy rabbit ragù.