Two Toms (CLOSED)

Plenty of places do fancy. Two Toms ain’t one of them. Jimmy Catapano and his son, Tom, serve excellent food like manicotti—thin homemade pancakes rolled and stuffed with ricotta, mozzarella, Parmesan and parsley. You won’t find it listed on a menu—there isn’t one. The waiters will fill you in on the day’s selections, including a pork chop known in this neck of the woods for its Paul Bunyan proportions (veal dishes are more modestly sized). Wine and soft drinks are snatched from a deli-style fridge in the dining room, and they’re all ice-cold.