Ghenet Brooklyn

After years of bringing Ethiopian flavors to Nolita, Ghenet has opened a Park Slope outpost that does justice to the original. The smaller space is well used, with metal partitions lining the walls, adorned with lacey cut-out motifs. The kitfo tiklil appetizer (beef tartare rolled in injera) boasts exciting textures, but is remarkably oily. The main courses are the usual assortment of piquant bean purées and puddles of chopped meats or greens. The key to everything is the rich and complex berbere spice blend that Ghenet does so well. The sega wett (spicy beef) and doro aletcha (chicken leg and boiled egg in mild sauce) are two standouts. The dessert selection is perfunctory, but the honey wine sorbet is a refreshing use of the traditional beverage.