By about 8pm at this clubby haunt, quiet conversation is out; noise, fun and food are in. Roasted goat cheese in a rich flaky pastry and silky, full-flavored foie gras terrine lead the appetizer pack. For your entrée, consider one of the mussel dishes, especially the Thai variation with ginger, lemongrass and cilantro, or go straight for the succulent steak au poivre. (Pairing your meal with a good wine shouldn’t be a problem; the
list is nearly 20 pages long.) Le Charlot’s desserts,
which include profiteroles and tarte Tatin, do the classics justice.