For more than 50 years, this lodgelike Germantown holdover has clung to its roots—dirndled waitresses, men in lederhosen and bubbling steins of Spaten. Sausages, all supplied by neighboring butcher Schaller & Weber, are the way to go: Platters arrive weighted down with tasty links of pork-and-beef bauernwurst, veal weisswurst and pork bratwurst. Though most entrées come with spaetzle, sauerkraut or potato salad, brave diners can opt for “Old World favorites” like boiled pig knuckles.
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