Fatty Crab (CLOSED)

The Malaysian-inspired eatery from Zak Pelaccio (5 Ninth) reflects his cunning take on Southeast Asian cuisine: Who knew you could squeeze sambal mayo and pork belly between slices of Pepperidge Farm bread for a killer tea sandwich? The classic Malaysian chili crab makes an appearance, but expect to pay quite a bit more for it: “Market price” can mean $40 for a single Dungeness swimming in an admittedly excellent tomato chili sauce. Far better bang for your buck is the short rib rendang, an unbelievably tender chunk of meat braised in coconut and kaffir lime. This packed spot takes no reservations, but turnover is quick—hard wooden chairs squeezed behind tiny tables in the single red-walled room don’t encourage tarrying.