Petite Crevette

Whoever came up with the name for this spot certainly has a sense of humor. “Little shrimp” may sound redundant, but it makes perfect sense once you set foot inside this odd 18-seat shoe box. Brightly painted tropical fish are tacked onto teal walls, and the banquettes—upholstered with tawny velour—resemble church pews. If the food weren’t so great, the decor would just seem creepy. But chef Neil Ganic (Bouillabaisse 126) has gained a cult following for his seafood. He makes fresh fish stock daily, which enhances the corn-and-crab chowder and the crackling red-snapper fillet steeped in a coconut-milk–tinged saffron broth. If you like intimate experiences, show up early—the place doesn’t take reservations and it gets packed.