Char No. 4 (CLOSED)

The scent of smoldering wood is overwhelming at this Smith Street newcomer; happily, much of what comes from the smoker, courtesy of chef Matt Greco (A Voce), is worth suffocating for. Pink, peppery lamb pastrami is dotted with spicy coriander seeds, and a snappy, sage-flecked pork sausage is smartly paired with bitter Swiss chard and sweet sautéed prunes. Look to the able bartender for a hand in navigating the impressive collection of 300 whiskeys. It’s a beverage program worth exploring—even if you leave smelling like a bonfire.