Café Cluny

It took only a few word-of-mouth whispers to draw hordes to this Village bistro from Odeon owner Lynn Wagenknecht. Though its cuisine is urban bistro, the decor is all country: A corner bar separates two artfully cluttered mushroom-gray rooms festooned with antlers, taxidermy and framed vegetable prints. The short menu, overseen by Odeon chef Vincent Nargi, tends toward the rich and heavy—falling-off-the-bone short ribs are braised in veal stock and red wine, and squash ravioli are doused in sweet sage and brown butter.