Cabrito (CLOSED)

This artfully scuffed roadhouse, done up with Mexican wall tiles and bare filament bulbs, traffics in big, offbeat flavors. Chef David Schuttenberg (Fatty Crab) favors authenticity over crowd-pleasing Tex-Mex: Jalapeños rellenos stuffed with shredded snapper, raisins, capers and pumpkin seeds are a fiery starter, and the namesake cabrito, served on a banana leaf with a side of flour tortillas, offers the slow-cooked richness of a pit-roasted goat. You may find South of the Border fare this good on an outer-borough street corner, but Cabrito is a far more comfortable place to enjoy it.