Bobby Van's Grill Times Square

This is one of several outposts of a revered steakhouse chain known as Bobby Van’s. Appetizers include escargot, sesame tuna, beef carpaccio and eight types of salad, in addition to run-of-the-mill shrimp and so-so mozzarella-and-tomato. If you can’t decide which of 13 sides to order, ask for the combo of cottage fries, zucchini and onion rings—a heaping mound of greasy, soggy fried foods (a half order is plenty for two people). Steak lovers can feast on sirloin, filet mignon, rib eye and, of course, the porterhouse. Seafood lovers will appreciate the fishier options: sea bass, lobster, tuna, crab cakes, scallops, shrimp and filet of sole. The wine list does not pretend to be fantastically large, but it is reasonably diverse and includes categories for American varietals as well as bottles from Burgundy, Rhone, Bordeaux, Italy, Chile, Spain and Australia. Desserts seem like an afterthought, but the cheesecake ain’t bad. Chances are, you won’t have room for it anyway.